Help installing XP PRO

I recently builded my own computer. it was tough finding the right parts, but i manage to make it happen...BUT there are some few problems im having rite now

1. the cases front lights are not glowing. i think i didnt do the wiring connecting rite or somthing....

2. when i try to install XP, this pops out...windows says thers somthing wrong, but i dont see the bios complaining, it detected it and what not....

http/" alt=""/img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/fbm2themex/DSC01743.jpg[/imgb147a97423]

whats wrong? what should i do?

http//support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;324103

??

Stop 0x0000007B or INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE
The Stop 0x7B message indicates that Windows XP has lost access to the system partition or boot volume during the startup process. Installing incorrect device drivers when installing or upgrading storage adapter hardware typically causes stop 0x7B errors. Stop 0x7B errors could also indicate possible virus infection.

The second parameter is very important because it can indicate whether the 0x7B Stop message was caused by file system issues or problems with storage hardware and drivers. Values of 0xC000034 or 0xC000000E typically indicate

Disks or storage controllers that are failing, defective, or improperly configured.
Storage-related drivers or programs (tape management software, for example) that are not fully compatible with Windows XP Professional.
Possible Resolutions

During I/O system initialization, the controller or driver for the startup device (typically the hard disk) might have failed to initialize the necessary hardware. File system initialization might have failed because of disk or controller failure, or because the file system did not recognize the data on the boot device.
Repartitioning disks, adding new disks, or upgrading to a new disk controller might cause the information in the Boot.ini file, or Boot Manager, to become outdated. If this Stop message occurs after installing new disks to your system, edit the Boot.ini file or adjust the Boot Manager parameters to allow the system to start. If the error occurs after upgrading the disk controller, verify that the new hardware is functioning and correctly configured.
Verify that the system firmware and disk controller BIOS settings are correct and that the storage device was properly installed. If you are unsure, consult your computer's documentation about restoring default firmware settings or configuring your system to auto-detect settings. If the error occurs during Windows XP Professional setup, the problem might be due to unsupported disk controller hardware. In some cases, drivers for new hardware are not in the Windows XP Professional Driver.cab library, and you need to provide additional drivers to complete the Windows XP setup successfully. If this is the case, follow the hardware manufacturer's instructions when installing drivers. Periodically check for driver and firmware updates.
Hard disk corruption can also cause this Stop message. For more information about checking hard disk integrity, see the instructions provided in "Stop 0x00000024 or NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM" earlier in this list.
Problems that cause 0x7B errors might also cause Stop 0xED errors. For more information about 0xED Stop messages, see "Stop 0x0000007B or INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE" later in this list.
Microsoft KB articles

Troubleshooting STOP 0x0000007B or 0x4,0,0,0 Error
STOP 0x0000007B Error After You Move the Windows XP System Disk to Another Computer
STOP 0x0000007B Error Message When You Restart Computer
STOP 0x0000007B Caused by Missing [SysprepMassStorage] Section on Windows XP sysprep Images
STOP 0x0000007B Error Occurs When You Press F6 to Load Drivers During Unattended Windows Setup

so the hard drive may be defective then?

[quote036d9b282f="LaFlame"]so the hard drive may be defective then?[/quote036d9b282f]
Possible, but much less likely than, say, a master/slave conflict (if this is a PATA HDD), an IRQ conflict, a BIOS configuraiton issue, fubar'ed jumpers, or anything else along those lines.

Your missing front panel LED's are due to either you plugging them into the wrong mobo headers, or plugging them in backwards. Being diodes, correct polarity is required for them to work -- they only pass current in one direction.

[quotef132098878="dmorris68"][quotef132098878="LaFlame"]so the hard drive may be defective then?[/quotef132098878]
Possible, but much less likely than, say, a master/slave conflict (if this is a PATA HDD), an IRQ conflict, a BIOS configuraiton issue, fubar'ed jumpers, or anything else along those lines.

Your missing front panel LED's are due to either you plugging them into the wrong mobo headers, or plugging them in backwards. Being diodes, correct polarity is required for them to work -- they only pass current in one direction.[/quotef132098878]

Agree,
when i made my first pc i put in the power lights etc on backwards and to lazy to fix it, heh

[quote74e48787d0="dmorris68"][quote74e48787d0="LaFlame"]so the hard drive may be defective then?[/quote74e48787d0]
Possible, but much less likely than, say, a master/slave conflict (if this is a PATA HDD), an IRQ conflict, a BIOS configuraiton issue, fubar'ed jumpers, or anything else along those lines.

Your missing front panel LED's are due to either you plugging them into the wrong mobo headers, or plugging them in backwards. Being diodes, correct polarity is required for them to work -- they only pass current in one direction.[/quote74e48787d0]

when you say master/slave, u mean the computer doesnt know whos who?? due to the jumper settings or wa?? i only have one HD.

yeah, you have to have the jumpers set correctly. and your IDE cables with your cdrom or something

this is wat i did, i inserted the jumper in the middle...so its set as master...right??

as for the cd rom, my bois detected it, and gives me the model of it what not.

so the possiblty is that it could be the IDE cable of the HD, i unplug it and plug it back, nothing, the same error comes out

so could it be the settings in my bios thats causing the problems??

You also have to make sure the red line on the IDE cable matches up to the pin marked with a '1' both on the motherboard and the hard drive itself. As for the master/slave settings for your hard drive, check on the HD itself, or in the manual.

The correct master/slave jumper setting depends on the drive -- each manufacturer does it differently. It should be noted on the drive label or PCB. Or if you're jumpered as cable select, you must have the IDE ribbon cable with the cut & twist on the end. I avoid CS and specifically jumper mine as master/slave, though. Some mfgs, like Western Digital, often have one jumper setting for master with no slave (single drive), and another for master with slave.

CD drive is the same way, you need to jumper it properly.

[quotefd31647365="LaFlame"]this is wat i did, i inserted the jumper in the middle...so its set as master...right??

as for the cd rom, my bois detected it, and gives me the model of it what not.

so the possiblty is that it could be the IDE cable of the HD, i unplug it and plug it back, nothing, the same error comes out

so could it be the settings in my bios thats causing the problems??[/quotefd31647365]

Take the jumper off entirely if you only have one HDD, and assuming the CD is on another channel/ribbon. The HDD will revert to Cable Select (CS) if you don't have a jumper on the HDD>

[quote959b60088a="doylnea"][quote959b60088a="LaFlame"]this is wat i did, i inserted the jumper in the middle...so its set as master...right??

as for the cd rom, my bois detected it, and gives me the model of it what not.

so the possiblty is that it could be the IDE cable of the HD, i unplug it and plug it back, nothing, the same error comes out

so could it be the settings in my bios thats causing the problems??[/quote959b60088a]

Take the jumper off entirely if you only have one HDD, and assuming the CD is on another channel/ribbon. The HDD will revert to Cable Select (CS) if you don't have a jumper on the HDD>[/quote959b60088a]

i did that...nothing...same error comes out...

when the mobo scan devices, everything goes great, but then i get this error

http/" alt=""/img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/fbm2themex/DSC01756.jpg[/imge8649ed507]

maybe this is the cause of the blue screen...right??

No, there's nothing about a UDMA downgrade for an old cable that would make you blue-screen. Your Plextor is configured for UDMA4 but is using an old cable, so it's just warning you that it can't run at UDMA4 speed.

What is more telling about that screenshot is that no HDD's are being detected. Like we're telling you, you have a HDD configuration problem (unless your controller or HDD are bad, but I'm thinking that's unlikely).

Pull the drive out and check the jumper table on the drive. Set it to cable select (new drives need this setting to work properly). Install the drive on its own cable, plug the blue end of the ribbon cable into the primary IDE port and plug the END (not middle) of the cable into the drive. If it is a SATA drive (the cable is quite small), just plug it into the SATA 1 connection on the motherboard.

Go into your BIOS (most likely using the DEL key) and check the drive configuration. Ideally the hard drive will be primary master, with your optical drives being secondary master and slave.

Based on your screenshot, your optical drives are sitting on your primary IDE, move them to the secondary. Put your hard drive on the primary as instructed above. Although Windows will install on a secondary, its best to stick with a standard configuration unless you really know what you are doing. Try to use an 80 pin cable for the hard drive for proper speeds. The secondary will not be full speed, so you can use a regular 40 pin cable for it.

As for your case lights, as posted already, they are either on the wrong pins or are reversed. Check your mainboard manual, or if you do not have one go to the manufacturer's website and get one.

stupid Question, you have the 4 Pin molex connector plugged into your hard drive right? Also make sure the IDe ribbon cable is in all the way on both the mobo and the hard drive.

Um, what's the wattage of the PSU? (Might be an issue)

[quote0bb647e0f9="icy"]Pull the drive out and check the jumper table on the drive. Set it to cable select (new drives need this setting to work properly).[/quote0bb647e0f9]
Not true! No drive needs this to work properly -- and I avoid cable select whenever possible. The only machines I ever run with cable select are pre-builts that come that way from the factory. As soon as I pull a drive, it gets jumpered. I've had too many issues with CS over the years, I much prefer to configure a drive exactly how I want it.

I just mentioned that because I have had trouble in the past getting drives to work properly and format using 100% of available space.

Maybe they do work fine now, just advising based on my experience as all ;p

[quote0165d86cf3="dmorris68"][quote0165d86cf3="icy"]Pull the drive out and check the jumper table on the drive. Set it to cable select (new drives need this setting to work properly).[/quote0165d86cf3]
Not true! No drive needs this to work properly -- and I avoid cable select whenever possible. The only machines I ever run with cable select are pre-builts that come that way from the factory. As soon as I pull a drive, it gets jumpered. I've had too many issues with CS over the years, I much prefer to configure a drive exactly how I want it.[/quote0165d86cf3]

I happen to agree 100%.

Having detection going on, only adds time to boot up, if not a hang up if something's wrong. I jumper everything too.

My personal rule is, if it can be hardware configged, why tax the software to adapt?

Can you actually prove it increases performance or is that just what you think happens?

[quote58344b79a6="Tholek"]Um, what's the wattage of the PSU? (Might be an issue)[/quote58344b79a6]

700watts

so i set the cd/dvd as secondary..(as recommended) into the red slot (40-pin)

i set the HDD as primary...(80-pin) into a blue slot...all of the sudden, bam, as i went to windows setup, the thing started to install...awsome

now, as i rebooted...windows wasnt loading...the underscore was blinking for ever... so i inserted the xp cd and rebooted...bam, windows loaded rite to the desktop...i was like...wat in the world...

then i saw this post about someone having the same problem, it said to install "recovery console"...so i did, took me 4 hrs...and bam, all of the sudden, windows is loading without the use of the cd...

but as i try to see if i can start from scratch....windows setup is about to install....the dam blue screen pops out again...what gives??? what have i done wrong??

Hmm, now I've no clue.

[quotebe8e55955a="icy"]Can you actually prove it increases performance or is that just what you think happens?[/quotebe8e55955a]

I'm not gonna [ibe8e55955a]specifically[/ibe8e55955a] say it improves it, but it certainly lessens the risk of a boot problem, at the very least.

[quotebe8e55955a="LaFlame"][quotebe8e55955a="Tholek"]Um, what's the wattage of the PSU? (Might be an issue)[/quotebe8e55955a]

700watts[/quotebe8e55955a]

Damn. shock Well, it's not that for sure....

Well, "700 watts" is highly suspect. It sounds like a cheap HD maker. Much like you often see 400W touted by $25 speakers, cheap PSU's give their junk ridiculous ratings that are nowhere near real-world accurate.

He didn't say what brand. I've seen crap PSU's claiming 600W that output less reliable current than a good 250W. There are many ways to cheat on PSU specs, and the cheap PSU mfgs use all the tricks. Lower ambient testing temps, narrow AC input ranges, poor output on 1 or more rails, artificially inflating rails that are rarely used on modern PC's, etc.

Your best PSU's are almost never rated as high as 700w. Widely considered the best PSU you can buy, the PC Power & Cooling 510 is 510W. It beats just anything made and costs almost $300 (PCP&C now makes 800W and 1Kw PSU's, for A LOT more money). Another top performer is Enermax. liSomeli Antec lines are very good, some are not. Fortron, Sparkle, lisomeli Ultra's, are good too. PSU's are like CD/DVD media -- the name on the label often is meaningless, it's who OEM's the product that matters. Some brands have both good and crap models.

Here are some [H]ardOCP writeups on PSU testing and which models are recommended and which to avoid.

Consolidated PSU Buying Guide[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1045259]Consolidated PSU Buying Guide (contains the following links)
How to Buy a PSU[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=844691]How to Buy a PSU
Recommended Power Supplies[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1000883]Recommended Power Supplies
PSU's to Avoid[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=974240]PSU's to Avoid

Sorry for the PSU sidetrack, I just perk my ears up when people are talking about potential PSU problems and somebody says "but I have a <insert really high wattage> PSU, so it can't be that!" Flaky PSU's account for more sporadic PC problems than probably any other component (flakey RAM coming in a close 2nd).

Not that I think this problem is likely PSU related, mind you. But still.

Carry on. P

[quotec766c5e79a="dmorris68"]Well, "700 watts" is highly suspect. It sounds like a cheap HD maker. Much like you often see 400W touted by $25 speakers, cheap PSU's give their junk ridiculous ratings that are nowhere near real-world accurate.

He didn't say what brand. I've seen crap PSU's claiming 600W that output less reliable current than a good 250W. There are many ways to cheat on PSU specs, and the cheap PSU mfgs use all the tricks. Lower ambient testing temps, narrow AC input ranges, poor output on 1 or more rails, artificially inflating rails that are rarely used on modern PC's, etc.

Your best PSU's are almost never rated as high as 700w. Widely considered the best PSU you can buy, the PC Power & Cooling 510 is 510W. It beats just anything made and costs almost $300 (PCP&C now makes 800W and 1Kw PSU's, for A LOT more money). Another top performer is Enermax. liSomeli Antec lines are very good, some are not. Fortron, Sparkle, lisomeli Ultra's, are good too. PSU's are like CD/DVD media -- the name on the label often is meaningless, it's who OEM's the product that matters. Some brands have both good and crap models.

Here are some [H]ardOCP writeups on PSU testing and which models are recommended and which to avoid.

Consolidated PSU Buying Guide[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1045259]Consolidated PSU Buying Guide (contains the following links)
How to Buy a PSU[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=844691]How to Buy a PSU
Recommended Power Supplies[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1000883]Recommended Power Supplies
PSU's to Avoid[=http//www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=974240]PSU's to Avoid

Sorry for the PSU sidetrack, I just perk my ears up when people are talking about potential PSU problems and somebody says "but I have a <insert really high wattage> PSU, so it can't be that!" Flaky PSU's account for more sporadic PC problems than probably any other component (flakey RAM coming in a close 2nd).

Not that I think this problem is likely PSU related, mind you. But still.

Carry on. P[/quotec766c5e79a]

Quite right. I assumed, and when I assume I....well you know. ;)

Incidentally, I have a rebranded Deer. Go ahead and have a hearty laugh. (

[quote034b32e72f="LaFlame"]but as i try to see if i can start from scratch....windows setup is about to install....the dam blue screen pops out again...what gives??? what have i done wrong??[/quote034b32e72f]
Is it the exact same blue screen as before? If not post a picture of it.

yeah, same one...this is terrible...

[quote2a4d1d4a82="Tholek"]Hmm, now I've no clue.

[quote2a4d1d4a82="icy"]Can you actually prove it increases performance or is that just what you think happens?[/quote2a4d1d4a82]

I'm not gonna [i2a4d1d4a82]specifically[/i2a4d1d4a82] say it improves it, but it certainly lessens the risk of a boot problem, at the very least.

[quote2a4d1d4a82="LaFlame"][quote2a4d1d4a82="Tholek"]Um, what's the wattage of the PSU? (Might be an issue)[/quote2a4d1d4a82]

700watts[/quote2a4d1d4a82]

Damn. shock Well, it's not that for sure....[/quote2a4d1d4a82]

its a OCZ GameXStream 700W Power Supply

[quote7b8a42846f="LaFlame"]its a OCZ GameXStream 700W Power Supply[/quote7b8a42846f]
In that case, it's even more unlikely to be your PSU. That's a good one. ;)

phew...then...wat could it be??? these are some of my specs...

ASUS P5LD2 Socket T (LGA 775) Intel 945P ATX Intel
intel Pentium 4 3.0ghz
Sound Blaster Audigy 4 Sound Card
ATI 512mb graphics card...
WD 300gb IDE<-----80-pin connected to it....
Lite Nite 52x, Plextor 16x <-----40-pin connected to them
700 watt psu.....

that black screen and the blue screen are driving me insane...

Is this an XP SP2 install disc? Because without SP2 (or was it SP1?), Windows won't support a 300GB drive.

However if you still can't see the drive detected on the BIOS screen as shown above, then you have a problem with the BIOS, cable, or drive not configured properly. That, or it could actually be a bad drive, but I'm not ready to make that judgement yet from what I've heard.

If this disc is pirated, that could also be your problem. Some drives dont like burned copies of Windows.

Since you builded your computer, it may not have been builded correctly...

[quote05fbe839f2="dmorris68"]Is this an XP SP2 install disc? Because without SP2 (or was it SP1?), Windows won't support a 300GB drive.

However if you still can't see the drive detected on the BIOS screen as shown above, then you have a problem with the BIOS, cable, or drive not configured properly. That, or it could actually be a bad drive, but I'm not ready to make that judgement yet from what I've heard.[/quote05fbe839f2]

i bought a new 40-pin cable for my cd/dvd rom...and bam, that Black screen warning error was gone!!!! so it was the cable(it was an old version)...

so now, the only problem i have is the HD blue screen....should i do the same?? buy a cable for it?? i think the cables that came with the motherboard are like old versions, that arent compatible at all with my devices....

[quote6734e13ce5="LaFlame"][quote6734e13ce5="dmorris68"]Is this an XP SP2 install disc? Because without SP2 (or was it SP1?), Windows won't support a 300GB drive.

However if you still can't see the drive detected on the BIOS screen as shown above, then you have a problem with the BIOS, cable, or drive not configured properly. That, or it could actually be a bad drive, but I'm not ready to make that judgement yet from what I've heard.[/quote6734e13ce5]

i bought a new 40-pin cable for my cd/dvd rom...and bam, that Black screen warning error was gone!!!! so it was the cable(it was an old version)...

so now, the only problem i have is the HD blue screen....should i do the same?? buy a cable for it?? i think the cables that came with the motherboard are like old versions, that arent compatible at all with my devices....[/quote6734e13ce5]
The warning on the black screen was just that, a warning. As I said, it isn't the cause of your blue screen. It was only telling you that using a 40-conductor cable won't allow your drive to run at UDMA4 speeds. Of course you should use an 80-conductor cable anyway, but that wasn't your problem to start with.

Once again, if your BIOS is not detecting your HD, then don't even bother with Windows. This isn't a Windows issue, it is a hardware/BIOS issue. Your BIOS is not detecting your HDD according to that POST screenshot. You need to verify jumper settings, verify cable orientation, and then try another cable.

[quote55561d0ecf="dmorris68"][quote55561d0ecf="LaFlame"][quote55561d0ecf="dmorris68"]Is this an XP SP2 install disc? Because without SP2 (or was it SP1?), Windows won't support a 300GB drive.

However if you still can't see the drive detected on the BIOS screen as shown above, then you have a problem with the BIOS, cable, or drive not configured properly. That, or it could actually be a bad drive, but I'm not ready to make that judgement yet from what I've heard.[/quote55561d0ecf]

i bought a new 40-pin cable for my cd/dvd rom...and bam, that Black screen warning error was gone!!!! so it was the cable(it was an old version)...

so now, the only problem i have is the HD blue screen....should i do the same?? buy a cable for it?? i think the cables that came with the motherboard are like old versions, that arent compatible at all with my devices....[/quote55561d0ecf]
The warning on the black screen was just that, a warning. As I said, it isn't the cause of your blue screen. It was only telling you that using a 40-conductor cable won't allow your drive to run at UDMA4 speeds. Of course you should use an 80-conductor cable anyway, but that wasn't your problem to start with.

Once again, if your BIOS is not detecting your HD, then don't even bother with Windows. This isn't a Windows issue, it is a hardware/BIOS issue. Your BIOS is not detecting your HDD according to that POST screenshot. You need to verify jumper settings, verify cable orientation, and then try another cable.[/quote55561d0ecf]

im using a 80 pin connector for my HDD...the one that came with the motherboard...

as i go to the bios...my bios does detect my hd.
the jumper is set to master...everything is connected right...so yeah, the only thing to do is get a new cable...maybe that should work...